August/September 2000

Mendocino Wine Affair
Friendly People, casual ambiance makes this event a hit
By Gregory S. Walter

Looking at the invitation for the Mendocino Wine Affair when it arrived elicited initial reactions around my office–something like "Wait a minute. That's the same weekend as the Napa Wine Auction. Are they crazy?"

Yeah, crazy like a fox. I've found that some of the best wine and food events happen in the shadow of the mega-events that get all the attention. And "best" does not necessarily mean most money raised or most tuxedo-clad wine lovers counted; to me it means that people came, people interacted and had a great time, and in the case of a charity auction, people gave money for other people who need it.

Under this definition, the Mendocino Wine Affair, sponsored by the Mendocino Winegrowers Alliance and held on Saturday, June 3 was clearly one of the better wine events I've attended in a long while.

We made the late-afternoon drive up through northern Sonoma County to our hotel in Hopland. As we continued north, the traffic as well as the stress from a busy week receded quickly, while at the same time, the scenery improved with every mile. By the time we reached our hotel, we had left the week behind and were ready for some fun. The kickoff event for the Mendocino Wine Affair was a Friday evening dinner at the Parducci Wine Cellars in Ukiah.

The "Barrel Tasting and Salmon Dinner Kick-Off Party" was held in the garden behind the visitor center at Parducci, one of the area's pioneer wine producers. This was a casual, friendly setting in which to meet many of the Mendocino County vintners, taste the wine they were pouring and actually have the opportunity to chat with each of them. We knew the dinner was going to be great when we parked our car–there in the parking lot was a huge ranch grill packed with salmon. We were not disappointed. The evening finished with dancing to a live band.

The next morning, prior to the main event, I was able to take a short trip east of Hopland on Highway I75. My destination was McDowell Valley Vineyards located in the valley of the same name that also happens to be in an American Viticultural Area with the same name. Makes it easy to remember.

I met with Bill Crawford, winegrower of the family owned wine estate. At first glance, Bill looks more like the cowboy, horse lover and rancher that he actually is. That initial impression is quickly supplemented by the fact that this guy knows his wines, his vineyards, and especially his Syrah. He's spent a long time learning and studying his valley's growing conditions and as a result has made a clear commitment to Rhone varieties like Syrah, Viognier, Marsanne and Grenache. He's so confident about the potential for Syrah in McDowell Valley that he trumpets that confidence on his business card. The line under the McDowell name is "America's Best Syrah."

And the wines, tasted both from bottled releases and from barrel, seem to deliver on that promise.

Making my way back toward Hopland, I turned off Highway I75 at Eastside Road and pulled in to Fetzer's Valley Oaks Ranch, where the main event was to be held that afternoon.

The Valley Oaks Ranch is a sprawling place with vineyards, beautiful oak trees, incredible gardens, a cooking school and a small inn. The day's event started with a walkaround Grand Tasting of wine and food situated in various locations in and around the gardens.

The temperature began to rise on that Saturday afternoon as if often does in the Hopland area in summer and I found myself returning again and again to the Navarro table for their excellent dry Gewurztraminer. In addition to the collection of member wineries pouring their latest releases, several talented chefs were serving up some tasty appetizers, including Bruce Aidells and his great sausages.

Soon it was time for the auction. The more than 600 attendees headed for the relative cool under the huge white tent, and relaxed with glasses of sparkling water and passed loaves of bread and fresh hummus. As the tent finally filled up, the auction was officially opened with a parade of vintners as each Mendocino Winegrowers Alliance member was introduced. Auctioneer David Reynolds then, in his own zany style, proceeded to drive bidders into a frenzy, eventually raising and all-time high of more than $70,000 in auction proceeds. The proceeds from the entire event went to benefit the Mendocino County Search and Rescue, a volunteer group that really needed the help.

At one point in the auction, Reynolds asked for a special favor from the bidders in the audience. He called it "Fund a Need." He asked everyone to raise their paddles and donate $IOO each to purchase a much needed new all terrain vehicle for Mendocino County Search and Rescue. Sixty-seven bidders responded and the need was funded.

A fabulous dinner followed with more great wines. Chefs for the evening were Bruce Aidells, Marc Dym of Stevenswood Lodge on the Mendocino coast, and Alan Kantor from MacCallum House in the town of Mendocino. Dinner was served family style on large platters, with seconds (or thirds) for those so inclined. I was so inclined, especially when it came to the excellent beef short ribs.

The evening ended with dancing under the stars. The songs were mostly upbeat, and deservedly so. Everyone had a lot to celebrate. It had been a good day.

As we left the dance late that evening, I was thinking that the Mendocino Wine Affair truly epitomizes what wine events really ought to be–fun, unpretentious, gatherings of people interacting, socializing and sharing their common love of food and wine.